I love your commentary/question: “ are we training our palates to only recognize bold, in-your-face flavors?”
I think there has been a movement over the last 10+ years that arose with the popularity/TV chef personality’s, to take a simple dish & “make it better” and in that we’ve lost the fine are of subtle flavors and the appreciation of them. Not every dish/bite needs to punch you in the face..
I was just having this conversation with my mom recently. I have two favorite dishes she makes — breaded slow roasted pork loin & meatloaf. Her recipes for both are simple and are delicious. Recently while cooking both dishes, she changed up the recipe. While good, not the expected flavor I love so much. I asked her why she felt the need to “change it up” and she said she had been watching show/saw how they were modifying a recipe “to make it better” —- I told my mom some recipes are perfect as is!
This is an intriguing question. Because I have always thought about how the snack industry flavors their offerings to specifically be addictively overpowering.
I have made your soups and have been sooooo tempted to add additional elements, but did not, and was pleasantly surprised to find how delicious the subtle flavors could be. 😍
I’m glad you didn’t! Even with this sauce, before even tasting it JP wanted to add mustard, thinking it bland. But once we started eating it with the croustade he thought it was perfect as is! We really have to concentrate to taste flavors.
Jamie, that looks absolutely delicious and I will try to make this week. I love aspargus.
When my husband and I were in Paris the first time in May 2001 we were dining at a highly rated small restaurant on the Left Bank when a family of four Americans came in and were seated next to us. Very wealthy looking husband, wife and child and what we think was the husband's mother. We noticed everyone was looking at the menu but the mother. She didn't open it but we figured maybe they ate their often and she knew what she wanted.
When the waiter came to take their order we heard the mother say "I only want white asparagus". Our heads snapped and looked over at them and the water said "so sorry madame we do not have white asparagus". She must have repeated this three times and each time progressively louder. She abruptly stood up and stormed out the door. Her son went scurrying after her. Drinks and water had already been delivered to the table so they had been there a while. The husband and mother never came back so a few minutes later the wife and child stood up and left too. We didn't see anyone pay for the drinks.
It was quite the commotion in this small quaint restaurant and of course we felt embarrased to be the Americans. But ever since if we see asparagus on a menu we say "I only want white asparagus".
Hopefully the mother would be very pleased with your dish, minus the puff pastry and eggs.
I like the appeal of both. One day a smoked jerked chicken, the next a spanish tortilla. An american cheese burger with bacon, bbq sauce, onions, and cheese. Then a french ratatouille. As mentioned though, this requires good ingredients. If I only have access to wilted produce and rock hard tomatoes, I'll be adding a lot of herbs and spices.
Allison March mentioned snacks, and I have found that I don't enjoy american snacks much anymore. I'll try something new, and one taste is enough to tell me that it's been A/B tested past all practical levels of flavor.
Ah, white asparagus! Nearly impossible to get here. But so good! I love that Careme claimed to simplify but his shapes and molds and plating still looks so complicated.
It's what I love about Carême! Everything is so spectacular, even his most simple dishes! He truly was able to pare down foods while concentrating entirely on presentation.
You have restored my faith in my own sanity! I occasionally watch Jamie Oliver videos, and whilst they are undoubtedly entartaining and sources of inspiration, I am always baffled when he bangs on about multiple layers of flavour. One or two will do me nicely, thank you, then tomorrow I can eat something completely different.
I'd agree with the notion that the tv-ification of preparing food and eating plays a large role in your theory.
I once had an exec return from a stage out in California, and what he kept repeating for months has stayed with me:
salt - pepper - flavor, much more than that just confuses the brain. (The implication as well was that I was expected to f-ing nail it :), that was fun!)
When we go out for dinner and I see a 7 ingredient salad, I look up and say oh look another word-salad!
the quality of the ingredients in these recipes can make the difference too. Now that we buy our produce from the local growers, the incredible freshness of the veggies also make those simple recipes shine!
Well, here goes. First I really appreciate your careful wording. Here in the US subtlety is not our strong point, shall we say. I own many many cookbooks and consider myself very fortunate. I like food in general and cooking in particular. The French view on the subject is specially enlightened. How to make something out of nothing and how to make incredible creations out of everything, and everything in between.
I suppose that is what happens when you value the ingredients, take the time to make and enjoy the food. It’s not just an activity it’s an art that you can enjoy 3 times a day.
Have you read “Much depends on Dinner” by Margaret Visser.? Or the Escoffier Ritz Paris cookbook. (100 step by step recipes from the school)?
I also love the simplicity of Italian food and Spanish food in their home countries. 1080 Recipes by Simon and Ines Ortega is a tour de force.
Your writing is very personal and engaging. Thank you for sharing your abilities.
Thank you so very much. I like what you say about valuing the ingredients. It takes my thoughts to their right conclusion …. I didn’t get there myself so thank you 🙏
Fabulous piece again Jamie, and some interesting questions you raise. I have some ideas which I’ll put in point form, it’s still early here, so no coherent argument has been formed.
1. Global exploration changed cuisine. Who knew the Dutch needed cinnamon and cloves until they stumbled across them in the Indonesian islands.
2. The American tendency for brashness, brilliance and bettering is at the heart of the over the top culinary trends you spoke of in American food trends Jamie. (I’m no expert on this matter, just my view)
3. The key of peasant food everywhere is the mastery of flavour extraction and careful handling of the produce they have at hand to optimize how it yields food that pleases and sustains.
4. Each food tradition has flavour profiles from a particular combination and ratios of spices and produce. The collective impact of these dishes weaves in subtle and obvious ways a deep thread to our life story. Who we are, where do we come from, where have we been, what have we learned and how have we integrated our knowledge into our lives.
5. I think food trends are a reflection of a society filled with individuals who are easily distracted by supermarkets, global food chains, some ridiculous people, a craving for instant gratification and
poorly developed delayed gratification.
6. How did this all happed?
We stopped shopping at markets, at the butchers, green grocers, bakers.
We stepped into the supermarket that had it all, with added flavour enhancers, colours, convenience. We took it all home and swallowed it all, but we are still hungry.
Ok, that’s what I think. I’d better get into my day.
Looks delicious although I'm a bit asparagused-out at this moment since Jacky bought a second bunch of asparagus when I had not even prepared the first so we had about 24 for two people!
So appreciate the recipe and the article. Asparagus season here means I have something different every week while the asparagus are still so nice. Will guiltily admit this is going to be made with the all-butter pastry I have been stashing in my freezer from Trader Joe’s. ( a delicious alternative to DuFour at ⅓ the price yet still very very high quality so my budget is guilt-feee to spend more on more asparagus!!)
I know this isn't exactly your question, but lately I've found restaurant menu descriptions here, and the dishes served, reduced to the bare minimum, leading me to wonder the opposite: is the French palate being trained to recognize only basic, simplistic dishes?
I'm not talking about restaurants gastronomiques or semi-gastros, or the little "cuisine du marché" places. But I've noticed an increase in minimalist -- and not very exciting-- dish descriptions in some of the restaurants around here that bill themselves as such, and certainly the brasseries.
A typical, and recent, example from a "written on a chalkboard" menu in a nice, well-rated, and packed place: magret de canard, boeuf grillé du moment, burger, steak tartare, andouillette, poisson du jour, fish 'n' chips. When I asked what the items were served with: "frites, légumes, ou salade."
Where is the gratin dauphinois? Why would I want green salad on my plate with a lovely piece of fish?
Hi Jamie! I miss you and will call soon! As always I love your writing. It’s always thoughtful, and full of FLAVOR!!
I do think the cooking contest shows on American TV have veered us in a bit of an overwhelming flavor path. When judges on these shows talk about the flavors of the dishes, they seldom applaud subtlety …. Quite the contrary. It’s all about flavors standing up to each other. I hope you know I adore your onion soup recipe, which I have made a number of times (it gives me a chance to use my Tete-lion bowls,ha) and guest fall in love with the subtlety, the gold Marc Blackwell soup bowls, NOT withstanding!
I am a huge fan of Eric Ripert, whose knowledge of the flavors of fish, well anything for that matter, is unmatched, as well as his abilities to celebrate the flavors strictly from a subtle perspective. Let’s face it Le Bernardin is an expensive habit, so there’s only so much of the in-person research that can be done on Eric. But suffice it to say, the subtlety is absolutely the prize. With the majority of Americans likely eating easy-to-make recipes, if not popped right out the (Trader Joe’s) bag, heated and served. It’s easy to imagine company’s adding enough flavor, so the dish is memorable, and always something guest will think is delicious. That’s pretty tough if the flavors are subtle. I’m sure that also weighs in on our cultures
flavor-rocket-meals.
I have to say, in my own cooking (and I don’t personally use recipes often) I am acutely aware of flavors and how they work together. I don’t announce during the meal, but am always doing my own quiet check on the flavors and how I married them. With that I am able to evolve with a less or more of this or that, the next time around. I find that fun. I also love discovering subtlety tricks- not just piling in a bunch of herbs- but understanding how cooking something separately, for example, before joining with the rest of the dish, can guide the flavors-
Your amazing historical approach, allows us a Birds Eye view into foods and how they got to where they are- and I love it. If I were to guess at Eric Riperts’ approach, I’d say he celebrates the flavor of his victims, be they fish or fowl, first, and tries quite successfully to never overwhelm, at all cost. So we have some very distinctive and opposite philosophies contributing to our societal cuisine trends. Thank God you’re one of them, and I assure you much appreciated.
I’m going to make this asparagus, exactly as you have directed…and can’t wait! Sending you a big hug- and many thanks!!! Xoxo, m
I love your commentary/question: “ are we training our palates to only recognize bold, in-your-face flavors?”
I think there has been a movement over the last 10+ years that arose with the popularity/TV chef personality’s, to take a simple dish & “make it better” and in that we’ve lost the fine are of subtle flavors and the appreciation of them. Not every dish/bite needs to punch you in the face..
I was just having this conversation with my mom recently. I have two favorite dishes she makes — breaded slow roasted pork loin & meatloaf. Her recipes for both are simple and are delicious. Recently while cooking both dishes, she changed up the recipe. While good, not the expected flavor I love so much. I asked her why she felt the need to “change it up” and she said she had been watching show/saw how they were modifying a recipe “to make it better” —- I told my mom some recipes are perfect as is!
Thanks for sharing this, Rachelle. Interesting….and amazing how those shows even influenced your mom!
This is an intriguing question. Because I have always thought about how the snack industry flavors their offerings to specifically be addictively overpowering.
I have made your soups and have been sooooo tempted to add additional elements, but did not, and was pleasantly surprised to find how delicious the subtle flavors could be. 😍
I’m glad you didn’t! Even with this sauce, before even tasting it JP wanted to add mustard, thinking it bland. But once we started eating it with the croustade he thought it was perfect as is! We really have to concentrate to taste flavors.
Jamie, that looks absolutely delicious and I will try to make this week. I love aspargus.
When my husband and I were in Paris the first time in May 2001 we were dining at a highly rated small restaurant on the Left Bank when a family of four Americans came in and were seated next to us. Very wealthy looking husband, wife and child and what we think was the husband's mother. We noticed everyone was looking at the menu but the mother. She didn't open it but we figured maybe they ate their often and she knew what she wanted.
When the waiter came to take their order we heard the mother say "I only want white asparagus". Our heads snapped and looked over at them and the water said "so sorry madame we do not have white asparagus". She must have repeated this three times and each time progressively louder. She abruptly stood up and stormed out the door. Her son went scurrying after her. Drinks and water had already been delivered to the table so they had been there a while. The husband and mother never came back so a few minutes later the wife and child stood up and left too. We didn't see anyone pay for the drinks.
It was quite the commotion in this small quaint restaurant and of course we felt embarrased to be the Americans. But ever since if we see asparagus on a menu we say "I only want white asparagus".
Hopefully the mother would be very pleased with your dish, minus the puff pastry and eggs.
Anita, i LOVE this story. It’s wild! And I love the continuing inside joke!
A yes, the ugly Americans… it’s a specialty. No one does that better than us.
I think it’s the particular food culture that opens them up to experimenting and mixing cultures etc.
I like the appeal of both. One day a smoked jerked chicken, the next a spanish tortilla. An american cheese burger with bacon, bbq sauce, onions, and cheese. Then a french ratatouille. As mentioned though, this requires good ingredients. If I only have access to wilted produce and rock hard tomatoes, I'll be adding a lot of herbs and spices.
Allison March mentioned snacks, and I have found that I don't enjoy american snacks much anymore. I'll try something new, and one taste is enough to tell me that it's been A/B tested past all practical levels of flavor.
Ah, white asparagus! Nearly impossible to get here. But so good! I love that Careme claimed to simplify but his shapes and molds and plating still looks so complicated.
It's what I love about Carême! Everything is so spectacular, even his most simple dishes! He truly was able to pare down foods while concentrating entirely on presentation.
Beautiful looking dish.
You have restored my faith in my own sanity! I occasionally watch Jamie Oliver videos, and whilst they are undoubtedly entartaining and sources of inspiration, I am always baffled when he bangs on about multiple layers of flavour. One or two will do me nicely, thank you, then tomorrow I can eat something completely different.
Thank you!
I’m going to do this next week.
Send pics!
I'd agree with the notion that the tv-ification of preparing food and eating plays a large role in your theory.
I once had an exec return from a stage out in California, and what he kept repeating for months has stayed with me:
salt - pepper - flavor, much more than that just confuses the brain. (The implication as well was that I was expected to f-ing nail it :), that was fun!)
When we go out for dinner and I see a 7 ingredient salad, I look up and say oh look another word-salad!
Oh oh oh brilliant! And I love salt-pepper-flavor! I’m stealing it! Thanks for this comment!
the quality of the ingredients in these recipes can make the difference too. Now that we buy our produce from the local growers, the incredible freshness of the veggies also make those simple recipes shine!
Your assists croustade looks beautiful ❤️!
I agree! I’ve been waiting for local asparagus!
Enjoyed this post very much. Keep them coming. Merci.
Well, here goes. First I really appreciate your careful wording. Here in the US subtlety is not our strong point, shall we say. I own many many cookbooks and consider myself very fortunate. I like food in general and cooking in particular. The French view on the subject is specially enlightened. How to make something out of nothing and how to make incredible creations out of everything, and everything in between.
I suppose that is what happens when you value the ingredients, take the time to make and enjoy the food. It’s not just an activity it’s an art that you can enjoy 3 times a day.
Have you read “Much depends on Dinner” by Margaret Visser.? Or the Escoffier Ritz Paris cookbook. (100 step by step recipes from the school)?
I also love the simplicity of Italian food and Spanish food in their home countries. 1080 Recipes by Simon and Ines Ortega is a tour de force.
Your writing is very personal and engaging. Thank you for sharing your abilities.
Thank you so very much. I like what you say about valuing the ingredients. It takes my thoughts to their right conclusion …. I didn’t get there myself so thank you 🙏
Thank you! Do you have thoughts on the topic? I'd love your perspective!
Fabulous piece again Jamie, and some interesting questions you raise. I have some ideas which I’ll put in point form, it’s still early here, so no coherent argument has been formed.
1. Global exploration changed cuisine. Who knew the Dutch needed cinnamon and cloves until they stumbled across them in the Indonesian islands.
2. The American tendency for brashness, brilliance and bettering is at the heart of the over the top culinary trends you spoke of in American food trends Jamie. (I’m no expert on this matter, just my view)
3. The key of peasant food everywhere is the mastery of flavour extraction and careful handling of the produce they have at hand to optimize how it yields food that pleases and sustains.
4. Each food tradition has flavour profiles from a particular combination and ratios of spices and produce. The collective impact of these dishes weaves in subtle and obvious ways a deep thread to our life story. Who we are, where do we come from, where have we been, what have we learned and how have we integrated our knowledge into our lives.
5. I think food trends are a reflection of a society filled with individuals who are easily distracted by supermarkets, global food chains, some ridiculous people, a craving for instant gratification and
poorly developed delayed gratification.
6. How did this all happed?
We stopped shopping at markets, at the butchers, green grocers, bakers.
We stepped into the supermarket that had it all, with added flavour enhancers, colours, convenience. We took it all home and swallowed it all, but we are still hungry.
Ok, that’s what I think. I’d better get into my day.
Looks delicious although I'm a bit asparagused-out at this moment since Jacky bought a second bunch of asparagus when I had not even prepared the first so we had about 24 for two people!
So appreciate the recipe and the article. Asparagus season here means I have something different every week while the asparagus are still so nice. Will guiltily admit this is going to be made with the all-butter pastry I have been stashing in my freezer from Trader Joe’s. ( a delicious alternative to DuFour at ⅓ the price yet still very very high quality so my budget is guilt-feee to spend more on more asparagus!!)
I know this isn't exactly your question, but lately I've found restaurant menu descriptions here, and the dishes served, reduced to the bare minimum, leading me to wonder the opposite: is the French palate being trained to recognize only basic, simplistic dishes?
I'm not talking about restaurants gastronomiques or semi-gastros, or the little "cuisine du marché" places. But I've noticed an increase in minimalist -- and not very exciting-- dish descriptions in some of the restaurants around here that bill themselves as such, and certainly the brasseries.
A typical, and recent, example from a "written on a chalkboard" menu in a nice, well-rated, and packed place: magret de canard, boeuf grillé du moment, burger, steak tartare, andouillette, poisson du jour, fish 'n' chips. When I asked what the items were served with: "frites, légumes, ou salade."
Where is the gratin dauphinois? Why would I want green salad on my plate with a lovely piece of fish?
Hi Jamie! I miss you and will call soon! As always I love your writing. It’s always thoughtful, and full of FLAVOR!!
I do think the cooking contest shows on American TV have veered us in a bit of an overwhelming flavor path. When judges on these shows talk about the flavors of the dishes, they seldom applaud subtlety …. Quite the contrary. It’s all about flavors standing up to each other. I hope you know I adore your onion soup recipe, which I have made a number of times (it gives me a chance to use my Tete-lion bowls,ha) and guest fall in love with the subtlety, the gold Marc Blackwell soup bowls, NOT withstanding!
I am a huge fan of Eric Ripert, whose knowledge of the flavors of fish, well anything for that matter, is unmatched, as well as his abilities to celebrate the flavors strictly from a subtle perspective. Let’s face it Le Bernardin is an expensive habit, so there’s only so much of the in-person research that can be done on Eric. But suffice it to say, the subtlety is absolutely the prize. With the majority of Americans likely eating easy-to-make recipes, if not popped right out the (Trader Joe’s) bag, heated and served. It’s easy to imagine company’s adding enough flavor, so the dish is memorable, and always something guest will think is delicious. That’s pretty tough if the flavors are subtle. I’m sure that also weighs in on our cultures
flavor-rocket-meals.
I have to say, in my own cooking (and I don’t personally use recipes often) I am acutely aware of flavors and how they work together. I don’t announce during the meal, but am always doing my own quiet check on the flavors and how I married them. With that I am able to evolve with a less or more of this or that, the next time around. I find that fun. I also love discovering subtlety tricks- not just piling in a bunch of herbs- but understanding how cooking something separately, for example, before joining with the rest of the dish, can guide the flavors-
Your amazing historical approach, allows us a Birds Eye view into foods and how they got to where they are- and I love it. If I were to guess at Eric Riperts’ approach, I’d say he celebrates the flavor of his victims, be they fish or fowl, first, and tries quite successfully to never overwhelm, at all cost. So we have some very distinctive and opposite philosophies contributing to our societal cuisine trends. Thank God you’re one of them, and I assure you much appreciated.
I’m going to make this asparagus, exactly as you have directed…and can’t wait! Sending you a big hug- and many thanks!!! Xoxo, m