L'éclair part two

“Excellent little dessert cakes”

It is good food and not fine words that keep me alive. - Molière

I have expounded on the éclair, sharing its history, its popularity interestingly tied to the creation of the poche à douille, the pastry bag, that unique and necessary kitchen utensil which allowed the easy piping out of fingers of the soft dough. The pain à la duchesse mysteriously becomes the éclair and finds its rhythm and its definitive form, soon making it one of France’s most recognizable and popular pastries. 

Sophie Wattel called éclairs “these excellent little dessert cakes” and Pierre Lacam told of the “despair of the ladies who eat two or three instead of one” in order to find satisfaction with their fill of cream. The éclair, so named, as Paul Augé explains it, "because it is eaten very quickly to avoid spilling the cream.” Comme un éclair, like a bolt of lightning, in a flash.

I leave you with selected words of Barbellion, a pastry chef at the end of the 20th century, who wrote an ode to choux pastry (I give you only the first and last stanzas)… 

The well-known aphorism made Berchoux famous*;

In his stanzas I'll sing the choux pastry,

And of this unknown, exquisite, tasty, 

Say the ardent praise and the happy formula. 

With choux pastry, the possibilities are endless

Create and vary the assorted desserts,

Turning it, bastard, into pretty nuns' farts

With starch, a little duchess frivolity.

Cream puffs, almond puffs, praline puffs,

Choux croque-en-bouche and Saint-Honorés;

Pagoda-boiled Mahomet breads,

And the brilliant éclairs always in fashion.

- L. Barbellion, London, 1891 (in Lacam’s Le Glacier Classique et Artistique en France et en Italie)

(I imagine Barbellion is referring to Joseph Berchoux’ quote “A poem was never worth a dinner.”)

I made coffee éclairs this week, wanting to share the earliest and most popular flavor of éclair at the end of my history of this pastry that I love so much. Personally, I’m a coffee fanatic and when given the choice, I always take an éclair au café. But then I decided to treat you to my recipes for both coffee and chocolate éclairs as well as my frangipane éclairs, pretty little pastries, long and fine, dotted with slivered almonds, dusted with a snowfall of powdered sugar, and filled with a luscious almond cream. I offer 2 different recipes for pâte à choux for you to try, 3 different cream fillings and toppings. If you have never made choux before, just be patient and go slowly, and give yourself the time.

* A note about pâte à choux or choux dough: you can make choux with either water, milk, or a combination of water and milk. Water allows you to bake the choux in a hotter oven or for a bit longer time without the risk of the choux over-browning; and it makes for a more tender, less crisp choux. Milk, with its extra proteins and sugars, gives a browned crust, making crispier choux. Many prefer and recommend the crisper milk version when filling choux or éclairs with a cream so the baked pastry remains firm and crisp, as a more tender choux will soak up the liquid.

Personally I prefer using all water although I will use half water/half milk if I want a firmer choux that won’t get soggy from sitting a long time filled with pastry cream or whipped cream, such as when I make éclairs (some prefer this for profiteroles as well). But not always, as I actually prefer a chewier shell for my éclairs. But that’s me. Try them both and you decide.

Frangipane éclairs

Pastry Cream

Crème Pâtissière

⅔ cup (165 ml) whole milk (I use half whole, half lowfat)

2 large egg yolks

2 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons (35 grams) granulated white sugar

1 tablespoons + ¼ teaspoon (8 grams) flour

1 tablespoons + ¼ teaspoon (8 grams) cornstarch

Small pinch salt

Almond Cream

Crème d’Amandes

5.5 oz (155 grams) finely ground almonds (approximately 1 ½ cups + 1 tablespoon)

5.5 oz (155 grams) powdered sugar, sifted

10 tablespoons (155 grams) unsalted butter, softened

2 teaspoons dark rum

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

⅞ cup (200 ml) heavy whipping cream

Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C). Spread the finely ground almonds on a large baking sheet.

Begin by preparing the Pastry Cream: Vigorously whisk the egg yolks with half the sugar and the salt in a large mixing bowl until blended and thickened. Whisk in the flour and cornstarch until a thick, smooth, lump-free paste is formed. Heat the milk with the rest of the sugar in a medium pot over high heat until the first bubbles appear. Slowly pour the hot milk into the egg mixture in a slow, stream while whisking vigorously to prevent the eggs from cooking. Once the hot milk has been whisked into the eggs, pour everything back into the pot and return to the heat. Whisking continuously, cook the pastry cream over high heat until it comes to the boil and then allow it to simmer whisking nonstop, for 1 to 2 minutes until the pastry cream is thick and luxuriously fluid. Remove from the heat and scrape the pastry cream into a small heatproof/Pyrex bowl or mixing cup, cover with plastic wrap, pressing the plastic directly onto the pastry cream and refrigerate until chilled.

Prepare the Frangipane: Slide the ground almonds into the preheated oven and allow them to roast for 10 minutes; remove them from the oven and scrape into a bowl or platter and allow to cool. Place the butter in a pot over low heat and when the butter is only half melted, pour into a heat-proof mixing bowl, whisk in the powdered sugar until the butter is completely melted the mixture is smooth; whisk in the roasted ground almonds, the rum and the vanilla. Remove the now chilled pastry cream from the refrigerator and whisk into the almond cream until well blended and smooth. Cover with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator to chill.

Place the heavy cream in the refrigerator to chill along with a medium-large mixing bowl and the beaters from an electric mixer/beater to chill as well.

Pâte à Choux (first recipe)

⅓ cup (80 ml) milk

⅓ cup (80 ml) water

5 tablespoons (70 grams) unsalted butter, cubed

1 tablespoon (10 grams) granulated white sugar

1 large pinch salt

⅘ cup (100 grams) flour

2 large eggs

Large handful slivered blanched almonds for decorating

Powdered sugar for serving

Preheat or reduce the oven temperature to 300° (150°C). Line a large baking sheet with parchment or oven paper.

Place the milk,  the water, the cubed butter, the sugar, and salt in a saucepan and heat over medium heat. Bring to the boil and allow to boil for about 3 seconds. Remove from the heat and add the flour all at once. Stir to blend and then mix vigorously until it is homogenous.

Return the pot to the heat and “dry” the dough by stirring vigorously and cooking for about 2 minutes until the dough no longer sticks to either the pot or the spatula. Allow to cool slightly.

Lightly beat the eggs then whisk or beat into the dough a little at a time. Add a little more than ⅔ of the egg or just under the full 2 eggs (you should have at least a tablespoon of egg left to use as an egg wash).

Spoon the choux dough into a pastry bag fitted with a plain, ¾ – inch (20 mm) wide tip. Holding the pastry bag at a 45° angle from the baking sheet, pipe/push out even, regular tubes of dough 5 ½-inches (14 cm) long, slicing the end away from the tip with a sharp knife. Leave space all around the éclairs as they puff up and spread while baking.

Using your fingertips or a pastry brush, gently rub and coat the éclair dough with the egg, smoothing the shapes as needed. Sprinkle generously with slivered almonds (gently pressing them on to stick). Bake for about 1 hour until puffed and evenly colored a deep golden. You can prop the oven open slightly the last 5 or 10 minutes of the baking to allow steam to escape.

Remove from the oven and allow to cool on a rack.

Pâte à Choux (my dad’s recipe)

Makes about 14 éclairs 

1 cup (scant 250 ml) water

8 tablespoons (115 grams) unsalted butter

¼ teaspoon salt

1 cup (140 grams) flour (lightly spoon the flour into the measuring cup then level)

4 eggs, not too cold

Egg wash, 1 egg beaten with a pinch of salt, optional

Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°). Line a large baking sheet with oven-safe parchment paper. Don’t hesitate to pencil lines on your parchment paper using a ruler and tape measure for even éclairs. I do it all the time.

Have a pastry bag fitted with a large, round opening (mine is ⅝ inch in diameter which is perfect).

Put the water, butter, and salt in a large saucepan over medium-low heat and heat, stirring, until the butter melts and the mixture comes just to a boil. Remove from the heat and add the flour all at once, stirring until well blended. Return to the heat and, using a wooden spoon, stir vigorously until the mixture forms a ball and pulls away from the sides of the pot and the flour cooks, about 4 minutes; the dough will steam as it releases water, drying out the dough as needed. Make sure to keep the dough moving constantly, keeping it together in a ball as best you can.

Scrape the dough into a large pyrex mixing bowl and, stirring, allow to cool for just a minute or two. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition, until the mixture is smooth and creamy (this is a slippery task so use either a wooden spoon or a whisk, whichever is easier for you).

Once the dough is smooth and perfectly blended, spoon it into your pastry bag, pushing it down towards the tip. Twist the wide end closed, gently pushing down the dough. Gently press the dough out of the tip into smooth, even bands - mine measure 4 inches (10 cm - long). Wet your finger and smooth out the dough, if needed. If you like, you can gently brush the tops with the egg wash.

Bake in the preheated oven for 35 minutes; the éclair pastry should be a nice deep golden color and crispy/firm to the touch. 

Let it bake a bit longer if you think it best. Don’t forget the pastries will be filled with cream that will soften an underbaked choux. You want them to remain firm and slightly crispy even when filled. 

Remove from the oven and allow to cool on a rack.

PASTRY CREAMS

Coffee Pastry Cream for éclairs au café

This will fill about 10 éclairs, depending on the size of your choux and how much cream you want in each éclair. 

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 cup (225 ml) whole milk (I often use low fat)

6 tablespoons (100 grams) sugar

1 large egg

2 large egg yolks

2 tablespoons (30 grams) unsalted butter, slightly softened and cubed

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 teaspoons instant espresso powder dissolved in 1 ½ teaspoons boiling water

Dissolve the cornstarch in ¼ cup of the milk in a large heat-proof mixing bowl; whisk until smooth and there are no lumps. 

Combine the remaining milk (¾ cup) with the sugar in a medium saucepan. Bring just to a boil then remove from the heat.

Vigorously whisk the whole egg and the 2 yolks into the cornstarch mixture. Very gradually pour the hot milk into the egg mixture in a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly as you pour so the eggs do not begin to cook. This will slowly warm the eggs.

Once all of the milk has been whisked into the cornstarch/eggs, pour all of it back into the saucepan and return to a medium-low heat

Continue whisking (this is important – you do not want the eggs to solidify/cook) until the cream thickens and comes just to a boil; this will take only a few minutes. Immediately remove from the heat and whisk in the butter, cube by cube, then the vanilla and the coffee.

Once the pastry cream is smooth, scrape it all immediately into a large heat-proof/Pyrex measuring cup or a heat-proof/Pyrex bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, gently pressing the plastic onto the surface of the pastry cream; this will avoid the formation of a skin. Refrigerate until ready to fill the éclairs.

Chocolate Pastry Cream for éclairs au chocolat

This will fill about 10 éclairs, depending on the size of your choux and how much cream you want in each éclair. 

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 cup (225 ml) whole milk (I often use low fat)

3 ounces (80 grams) finely chopped semisweet or bittersweet chocolate

6 tablespoons (100 grams) sugar

1 large egg

2 large egg yolks

2 tablespoons (30 grams) unsalted butter, slightly softened and cubed

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Dissolve the cornstarch in ¼ cup of the milk in a large heat-proof mixing bowl; whisk until smooth and there are no lumps. 

In a small saucepan, bring ¼ cup (about 50 ml) of the milk just to a boil, remove from the heat and stir in the finely chopped semisweet chocolate; mix until smooth.

Combine the remaining milk (½ cup) with the sugar in a medium saucepan. Bring just to a boil then remove from the heat.

Vigorously whisk the whole egg and the 2 yolks into the cornstarch mixture. Very gradually pour the hot milk into the egg mixture in a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly as you pour so the eggs do not begin to cook. This will slowly warm the eggs.

Once all of the milk has been whisked into the cornstarch/eggs, pour all of it back into the saucepan and return to a medium-low heat

Continue whisking (this is important – you do not want the eggs to solidify/cook) until the cream thickens and comes just to a boil; this will take only a few minutes. Immediately remove from the heat and whisk in the butter, cube by cube, then whisk in the chocolate milk and the vanilla.

Once the pastry cream is smooth, scrape it all immediately into a large heat-proof/Pyrex measuring cup or a heat-proof/Pyrex bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, gently pressing the plastic onto the surface of the pastry cream; this will avoid the formation of a skin. Refrigerate until ready to fill the éclairs.

ICINGS

Prepare icing while the pastry cream is chilling and before you make the eclairs; the icing or glaze needs a bit of time to thicken as it sits. Just stir or whisk it every now and then so the top doesn’t dry out.

Chocolate Royal Icing

2 cups (200 grams) Powdered/Icing/Confectioner’s Sugar, or more as needed

⅙ to ¼ cup (40 - 60 ml) boiling water

1 ounce (30 grams) unsweetened or very bittersweet chocolate (I used Lindt’s Dessert 99%)

To measure the powdered sugar, gently spoon the sugar into the measuring cup until slightly mounded then level.

Gradually add enough of the boiling water to the powdered sugar, stirring, until the mixture is thick but smooth and spreadable. Chop up the chocolate and add it to the icing and stir (over very low heat if needed) until the chocolate is melted and the icing is smooth. Set the icing aside, stirring occasionally to keep the top from forming a “crust”, until it cools and then thickens to spreading consistency. 

Coffee Royal Icing

2 cups (200 grams) powdered/confectioners’ sugar

3 tablespoons very strong brewed coffee or espresso

To measure the powdered sugar, gently spoon the sugar into the measuring cup until slightly mounded then level. 

Whisk the coffee into the sugar until super smooth and spreadable without being too thin; it should cling to the top of the éclairs, not run down the side. Add more sugar if it is too thin, more coffee if too thick. You want it thicker than thinner… I added an extra heaping tablespoon. Set the icing aside, stirring occasionally to keep the top from forming a “crust”, until it thickens to spreading consistency. 

To Assemble the Éclairs

When the pastry cream is well chilled, the glaze is thickened, and the éclair choux are completely cool, just slit the side horizontally of each choux and fill with cream - using a pastry bag with the same tip as you used to pipe out the éclairs works best. 

Drizzle icing onto each éclair, one at a time, and quickly smooth across the top using a small offset spatula or flat knife blade.

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