Re Milly and her croque-monsieur. If the sandwich was considered everyday fare it would not be surprising that recipes for it would not be written about in gastronomical treatises. So it makes sense that it was probably an idea that existed for some time before someone though to culinarily record it for posterity.
That's such an interesting concept, Maité. In all of these literary mentions it does sound like it was fairly common café fare. I do think it funny it took so long for it to appear in a cookbook. But why it didn't is another mystery that will drive me crazy hahaha
A lesson I’ve learned from historical archaeology (medieval and Renaissance glass tableware in my case) is that commonplace activities and the objects associated with them don’t always appear in the written historical record so it’s important to complement the official written historical record (cookbooks in your case) with offhand mentions in literature and books other than cookbooks and, in my case, archaeological artifacts and images in paintings, manuscripts, and even recipes cooked in recipients made of glass!
Croque monseiur is one of my favorite lunches. I have yet to find a place here in NYC that makes it better than me though! I love it heavy on the bechamel.
I make my pain de mie, which is crucial since you can’t really find it here and Wonderbread is, well, not the same. That’s a it part of it. I use country ham (not the heavily salted kind), which is the closest thing I can find to French ham. I butter and toast the bread lightly one one side, which becomes the inside of the sandwich, then layer the ham, cheese, and thick bechamel inside the sandwich. Close it up, butter the outside, and toast again, turning to get both slices of bread, then top with more bechamel and grated Gruyere. Put it in the broiler to finish it up.
I saved this post so that I could make this when it cooled down enough to use the broiler – I can't even tell you how shocked I am that I remembered it and was actually able to find the post again. And I'm not going to tell you how many substitutions I made because I didn't want to wait until I had everything exactly right. It turned out delicious and even with all my subs it helped quench my croque-monsieur craving. I did make the bechamel exactly as described. My first time! I've been cooking for decades and have a long history of disasters when something is supposed to thicken, so I was elated when this worked. I did have two questions: by the time I was ready for the cooled sauce, it had formed a thick skin, was I supposed to have covered it, or stir that in, or just move it aside and forge ahead? (I went with that last option.) And, the bottom of my sandwich did not get crisped in the broiler. It might be because I was too timid and took it out too soon (since the top looked nicely done) or maybe because I put parchment between the bread and the broiler pan? In any case, it was great and I'll be making it again. Maybe today.
Ah, great questions! So for the bechamel - just give it a vigorous whisking every now and then between the time you turn it off and gently reheat it for use. Once you reheat it, give it a vigorous whisking, too. That should do the trick.
Second, I'm with you on the underside not getting crisp. I think part of it has to do with the surface of the baking sheet you place it on for broiling. You could crisp it up in a pan before putting it on a baking sheet, topping with the bechamel and cheese and quickly broiling.
Hahaha... it's funny how cheesy things make us crave. And while these are eaten hot out of the oven, with a green salad they just seem like the perfect summer meal, right?
Interesting and informative as usual. Loved it. In the first classes of culinary school the Croque-Monsieur was one of our first challenges. Some students complained "I already know how to make a grilled cheese". Lol Nuance was lost on them. The history of food and food recipes is very important now and for the future. I look at it this way- as long as I live I intend to eat great food. Cheers!
Hi!!!! Thanks for this comment; I'm surprised the croque-monsieur was an assignment in culinary school, but that is so interesting! I wonder, how was the recipe different than mine? I would love to know!
And food history... it is so important to understand how traditional foods tie to a people and a culture. It makes that food that much richer when we make and eat it. I find it fascinating and educational. And a heck of a lot of fun, too, yeah?
I did get my degree many moons ago. I recall the class was a way to introduce cooking/food terms (mise en place, amuse bouche, etc.) and an illustration of differences in geo locations of food. To this day Food Is Fun! 💚
Your research skills constantly impress me and this is a particularly fascinating deep dive. Also, now all I want is a) a croque monsieur and b) to bite down hard on a dead person's toe.
The stove/oven remains off from May through September. 110°F+ temps almost continuously in July/August. Last year, we were 100°F+ well into October. I hope that isn't true this year.
Tamara, to tell the truth they were so rich I could only eat half a one - well, I could have eaten a bit more but I stuck to one half hahaha though my husband gobbled down a whole one! Let me know how you like the recipe!
Wonderful, wonderful, wonderful!!! Such an amazing walk thru the history of this délice! My cocktails version was to laboriously dip mini-versions (1/4) held with toothpicks into savory eggs & cream, into too much hot butter, quick baste then into a hot oven with a generous sprinkle of Parmesan. The surrounding puddle of “Frico-tized “ Parmesan made a textural fun addition.
I can’t wait until you try!! And I hope it doesn’t take you 15 minutes with your croques in a hot oven to figure out which is the broiler setting 🤦🏻♀️
Delightful, looks delicious, once again you've delivered a charming piece that leaves one craving more! 💙
Thank you, my darling Shire 💜
Re Milly and her croque-monsieur. If the sandwich was considered everyday fare it would not be surprising that recipes for it would not be written about in gastronomical treatises. So it makes sense that it was probably an idea that existed for some time before someone though to culinarily record it for posterity.
That's such an interesting concept, Maité. In all of these literary mentions it does sound like it was fairly common café fare. I do think it funny it took so long for it to appear in a cookbook. But why it didn't is another mystery that will drive me crazy hahaha
A lesson I’ve learned from historical archaeology (medieval and Renaissance glass tableware in my case) is that commonplace activities and the objects associated with them don’t always appear in the written historical record so it’s important to complement the official written historical record (cookbooks in your case) with offhand mentions in literature and books other than cookbooks and, in my case, archaeological artifacts and images in paintings, manuscripts, and even recipes cooked in recipients made of glass!
Thank you for this. I love your archeological perspective of the food I post.
Croque monseiur is one of my favorite lunches. I have yet to find a place here in NYC that makes it better than me though! I love it heavy on the bechamel.
I'd love to know how you make it!
I make my pain de mie, which is crucial since you can’t really find it here and Wonderbread is, well, not the same. That’s a it part of it. I use country ham (not the heavily salted kind), which is the closest thing I can find to French ham. I butter and toast the bread lightly one one side, which becomes the inside of the sandwich, then layer the ham, cheese, and thick bechamel inside the sandwich. Close it up, butter the outside, and toast again, turning to get both slices of bread, then top with more bechamel and grated Gruyere. Put it in the broiler to finish it up.
I saved this post so that I could make this when it cooled down enough to use the broiler – I can't even tell you how shocked I am that I remembered it and was actually able to find the post again. And I'm not going to tell you how many substitutions I made because I didn't want to wait until I had everything exactly right. It turned out delicious and even with all my subs it helped quench my croque-monsieur craving. I did make the bechamel exactly as described. My first time! I've been cooking for decades and have a long history of disasters when something is supposed to thicken, so I was elated when this worked. I did have two questions: by the time I was ready for the cooled sauce, it had formed a thick skin, was I supposed to have covered it, or stir that in, or just move it aside and forge ahead? (I went with that last option.) And, the bottom of my sandwich did not get crisped in the broiler. It might be because I was too timid and took it out too soon (since the top looked nicely done) or maybe because I put parchment between the bread and the broiler pan? In any case, it was great and I'll be making it again. Maybe today.
Ah, great questions! So for the bechamel - just give it a vigorous whisking every now and then between the time you turn it off and gently reheat it for use. Once you reheat it, give it a vigorous whisking, too. That should do the trick.
Second, I'm with you on the underside not getting crisp. I think part of it has to do with the surface of the baking sheet you place it on for broiling. You could crisp it up in a pan before putting it on a baking sheet, topping with the bechamel and cheese and quickly broiling.
Thank you!
I can't seem to comment...
Now those tuna steaks will have to wait, I know what I want for dinner.
Hahaha... it's funny how cheesy things make us crave. And while these are eaten hot out of the oven, with a green salad they just seem like the perfect summer meal, right?
For me it’s going to be a mid winter supper with a movie on a Friday evening. Thanks for the inspiration, better get off to the deli.
Interesting and informative as usual. Loved it. In the first classes of culinary school the Croque-Monsieur was one of our first challenges. Some students complained "I already know how to make a grilled cheese". Lol Nuance was lost on them. The history of food and food recipes is very important now and for the future. I look at it this way- as long as I live I intend to eat great food. Cheers!
Hi!!!! Thanks for this comment; I'm surprised the croque-monsieur was an assignment in culinary school, but that is so interesting! I wonder, how was the recipe different than mine? I would love to know!
And food history... it is so important to understand how traditional foods tie to a people and a culture. It makes that food that much richer when we make and eat it. I find it fascinating and educational. And a heck of a lot of fun, too, yeah?
I did get my degree many moons ago. I recall the class was a way to introduce cooking/food terms (mise en place, amuse bouche, etc.) and an illustration of differences in geo locations of food. To this day Food Is Fun! 💚
Another delicious deep dive. Thanks, Jamie!
Thanks, Domenica!!!
Your research skills constantly impress me and this is a particularly fascinating deep dive. Also, now all I want is a) a croque monsieur and b) to bite down hard on a dead person's toe.
These deep dives are NEVER what I thought they would be when I start. This one was particularly fun!
Oh, if only it wasn't too hot to turn on the oven right now! These look/sound absolutely divine! ♥️
Just a quick trip under the broiler. Well once you make the béchamel hahaha. With a nice big cool green salad!
The stove/oven remains off from May through September. 110°F+ temps almost continuously in July/August. Last year, we were 100°F+ well into October. I hope that isn't true this year.
I love C~Ms. Cant wait to make this!
Ooooh this is both exciting and scary, David! haha definitely let me know how they come out (I have no doubt yours will be fab!)!!
So interesting and this post is tempting me to end my 7-day detox 5 days early 🤣!
One of my favorites - esp as a croque madame too.
Something to look forward to making on Saturday. 😊
Tamara, to tell the truth they were so rich I could only eat half a one - well, I could have eaten a bit more but I stuck to one half hahaha though my husband gobbled down a whole one! Let me know how you like the recipe!
Wonderful, wonderful, wonderful!!! Such an amazing walk thru the history of this délice! My cocktails version was to laboriously dip mini-versions (1/4) held with toothpicks into savory eggs & cream, into too much hot butter, quick baste then into a hot oven with a generous sprinkle of Parmesan. The surrounding puddle of “Frico-tized “ Parmesan made a textural fun addition.
Oh my!!! Your cocktail version sounds fabulous and decadent!!!
One of my all-time favourite sandwiches! I can’t wait to try your recipe!
I can’t wait until you try!! And I hope it doesn’t take you 15 minutes with your croques in a hot oven to figure out which is the broiler setting 🤦🏻♀️
😬
Oh, no!