Remembrance of things...

Madeleines

The sight of the little madeleine had recalled nothing to my mind before I tasted it. - Marcel Proust

I recently had a feature in the November/December issue of Bake from Scratch magazine including a few of my favorite traditional French Christmas recipes. You might have seen it. But turn to the back of the issue and you’ll find my recipe for authentic madeleines with a touch of orange blossom water. But aside from the recipe, I recount the Origin of a Classic, the history of the famous little French tea cake. I won’t repeat it here, but it’s a curious and fascinating legend that spans several centuries, from the 12th to the early 19th, and across France from the Saint Jacques de Compostelle pilgrimage to Commercy - the town forever associated with the madeleine - to Versailles and Paris - where the popularity of the madeleine among the upper crust turned this little peasant treat into something chic. And, of course, Stanislas Leszczynski, former King of Poland, Duke of Bar and Lorraine, and father-in-law of Louis XV, was involved, as he usually was when it involved gourmandises. (And here I bet you were expecting me to bring up Proust).

I’ve been making madeleines, on and off, for many years now, experimenting with recipes, methods, and flavors, both savory and sweet. Their curious shape aside, madeleines are really, along with financiers, the most interesting pastry for an adventurous baker for the endless possibilities of invention and creativity they afford. They are also the best little cake, whether for breakfast or snack, in that they are the perfect cross between cake and cookie. As easy to make as they are tasty to eat. One after the other. 

And they are perfect for dunking.

I first discovered the existence of chestnut flour when I was living in Italy. It’s quite common there, along with chickpea flour. Chestnut flour, when used in cakes, adds an odd, complex, intriguing flavor, one that I can never quite decide is good or bad. It’s nutty, earthy, a little smoky. 

The flour itself has a sweet flavor to it, but that seems to disappear when used in cakes, although that might just be the way I perceive it. The chestnut layer cake I make, a favorite, I frost with chocolate buttercream, so I know how well chestnut and chocolate pair - I mean, have you tried my chocolate chestnut fondant? So I decided I wanted to try a madeleine recipe using chestnut flour and blending in some chocolate, but not enough that the chocolate covered the unusual flavor of the chestnut flour. And these, I have to admit, are fabulous.

Note: I find chestnut flour in the grocery store in the organic and/or gluten-free flour aisle. I also find it in any organic or “health food” market or shop as well as specialty shops. I always store the bags, even before using the flour for the first time, in an airtight plastic freezer bag in the drawer of my refrigerator and it lasts for a very long time.

Chestnut madeleines with chocolate

The earthy, nutty chestnut flour and the whipped egg whites create a very particular version of the madeleine, almost a cross between a madeleine and a financier, light and moist inside, almost but not quite chewy, with that very fine crisp “crust’ that cracks when bitten into. I always find cakes made with chestnut flour rather strange but strangely addictive and this one, especially with the hint of chocolate, extremely satisfying and good. 

2 large eggs

9 ½ tablespoons (140 grams) unsalted butter softened to room temperature, more for the molds

½ cup + 4 teaspoons (120 grams) sugar

6 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon (60 grams) all-purpose flour

5 tablespoons (40 grams) chestnut flour

¼ teaspoon salt 

1 tablespoon good honey, preferably chestnut or forest

¼ teaspoon vanilla extract

4 to 6 tablespoons finely grated dark chocolate

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C) - note: in my new oven, the edges of my madeleines systematically burn, so feel free to lower your oven temperature to 375°F (190°C) if you feel more comfortable doing so. Just adjust the baking time, if needed.

Lightly but completely butter the shell-shaped wells for 20 - 24 madeleines 3 x 2-inch (8 x 5 cm) - I use 2 different madeleine pans: a mix of 12 - 3 x 2-inch (8 x 5 cm) and 12 - 3 x 1 ½ inch molds.

Carefully separate the eggs, placing the whites in a metal or plastic bowl large enough to beat or whip them until stiff and setting the yolks aside.

Beat the egg whites with clean beaters until stiff and thick. I add a drop or 2 of lemon juice and a few grains of salt before beating to help stabilize them. Set aside.

Place the softened butter and the sugar in a large mixing bowl and, using a hand or stand mixer on low speed to avoid splattering, beat the 2 together until very well blended. Beat in the egg yolks until blended and smooth. Add the white and the chestnut flours, the salt, honey, and vanilla and beat on medium speed until well blended and smooth. 

Using a spatula (preferably silicone or rubber - note: mine has a slight curve to the “blade” which is ideal for folding), fold in a third of the beaten egg whites to lighten the batter. Then fold in the rest of the whites in 2 additions, folding in just until completely blended and no more, scraping the bowl as needed; there should be no more egg white visible.

Add a 4 to 6 tablespoons finely grated dark chocolate, folding in just until blended and well dispersed through the batter: you want to give the batter a speckled effect but without overblending or overworking the batter.

Spoon the thick batter in the madeleine molds, filling each well/shell shape not quite full; remember the madeleines will rise and fill out the shell shapes (you don’t want to overfill them). 

Bake for 10 minutes or so, depending on the size of your madeleines and your oven. The madeleine should be risen, slightly darker around the edges, and puffed and set in the center when lightly pressed.

Remove the pan or pans from the oven. Carefully pop each cake out of its mold and place on a cooling rack - I use the tip of a knife to do this. 

Once completely cooled, you can also dip each madeleine halfway in melted and slightly cooled dark chocolate, pose on a rack, and allow the chocolate to solidify as it cools.

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